What is greenwashing?

Greenwashing, also known as greenwashing or eco-bleaching, is a term often mentioned in the context of advertising campaigns. But what does it really mean? You’ve come to the right place if you want to learn more and know how to recognize it. At Hindbag, we fight against these usurpers of good practices and good values, who seek to give themselves a good image while deceiving you, the consumer!

Definition of greenwashing

Let's start by clarifying this term greenwashing. It is a marketing method consisting of communicating with the public using the ecological argument in a misleading way to improve its image . This practice appeared in the late 80s in the United States, by the fusion between "whitewashing" (whitewashing information) and "green" (the color green , in reference to ecology). It is assimilated to false advertising, because it misleads consumers with false ideas on ecological or sustainable development subjects.

Different ways of greenwashing

Greenwashing can be intentional or the result of clumsiness due to a lack of knowledge of regulations. It often relies on the use of natural elements in advertisements, such as trees, flowers, or the sea, to deceive the consumer into believing that the product is good for the planet, which is often not the case. Lack of transparency is also common: the company may want to highlight its commitments in a vague manner, using generic language to suggest without revealing concrete evidence. An even more underhanded practice is to use undemanding labels to reassure consumers. Environmental claims, promising fabulous commitments without supporting evidence, are also part of greenwashing strategies.

Who regulates and sanctions Greenwashing in France?

In France, the Professional Advertising Regulatory Authority (ARPP) regulates greenwashing. Its objective is to maintain truthful, fair and healthy advertising. It is supported by NGOs that publicly denounce greenwashing practices. Greenwashing is considered a misleading commercial practice, punishable by 2 years of imprisonment and a fine of €300,000 , in accordance with Article L.132-2 of the Consumer Code. This fine can be increased to 80% of the expenses incurred for the production of the advertisement or the guilty practice of greenwashing, in proportion to the benefits derived from the offense.

The problem of greenwashing in the fashion industry

Greenwashing in the fashion industry contributes to a vicious circle. Each year, the fashion industry consumes nearly 98 million tons of non-renewable materials (including oil for its transformation into synthetic fibers), 93 billion cubic meters of water (for cotton crops in particular, but also for dyes), and is responsible for the production of more than 1.2 billion tons of greenhouse gases (more than air and sea transport combined), as well as the pollution of more than 20% of the world's waters . By misleadingly advertising the eco-friendly benefits of clothing, we only accelerate the consumption of clothing with a negative impact.

How to identify companies that engage in greenwashing?

Identifying greenwashing practices is ultimately quite simple! If you notice a lot of so-called natural elements, the color green and environmental vocabulary used in an advertisement for a product that has no positive impact on the environment or humans, it is GREENWASHING ! Similarly, if a company highlights its CSR values ​​but you cannot find any information about it on its website, it is also GREENWASHING ! Finally, if you discover a label for the first time and you cannot find any other information about it on the internet, it is probably GREENWASHING !

Examples of greenwashing campaigns in fashion

After the theory, here comes the practice, one might say! We present to you 3 examples of greenwashing advertising campaigns. Are you ready? We have selected only nuggets!

H&M Conscious

The “H&M Couscious” saga has made headlines, exposing the greenwashing practices of the famous ready-to-wear brand. By using vague terms such as “eco-friendly”, H&M is trying to cover up the issue, thus masking a less rosy reality . Their initiative of offering a €5 voucher in exchange for old clothes seems laudable at first glance, but the irony lies in the fact that this voucher can only be used to buy new items, which may encourage overconsumption rather than promoting a true circular economy. In addition, gaps have been noted in the technical data sheets, particularly regarding the actual proportion of recycled materials used in their products. Rather than focusing on real solutions to reduce their ecological footprint, H&M seems to prefer to continue producing at a frantic pace. This case highlights the importance of critically examining corporate practices, and highlights the ongoing challenges in combating greenwashing and promoting true sustainability in the fashion industry.

Zara Join Life

In 2017, fashion giant Zara launched an ambitious campaign promising that by 2025, the majority of its products would bear the “join life” label, a guarantee of quality for the cotton and other materials used. This initiative seemed like a step in the right direction, with affiliations to recognized labels such as the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) for cotton. However, behind this virtuous facade, there is a more complex reality. Zara seems to focus on the image of sustainability rather than on structural changes . Rather than reducing their ecological footprint by adjusting their production rates and volumes, they continue to overproduce. Thus, this campaign, although it has drawn attention to the need for more sustainable fashion, raises questions about the company’s true intentions and highlights the limits of greenwashing, where marketing efforts sometimes outweigh concrete actions for the environment.

Primark Cares

In the greenwashing landscape, Primark’s “Primary Cases” campaign presents itself as the brand’s response to the growing call for more sustainable fashion. Launched with lofty promises of extending the life of clothes, protecting the planet and improving workers’ living conditions, the program has attracted attention by promoting the “Primark Sustainable Cotton Programme.” However, despite these marketing efforts, the reality behind this façade of sustainability is troubling. The main problem lies in Primark’s business practices, characterized by massive volumes and constant renewal of collections, thus encouraging overconsumption . Furthermore, by outsourcing their production, the company loses control over working conditions in factories, leaving many facilities located in risky areas. This lack of direct oversight raises concerns about worker well-being and the brand’s real environmental impact. So, while “Primary Cases” may seem like a positive initiative on the surface, it highlights the shortcomings of greenwashing, where communication strategies often trump the concrete actions needed to promote a truly sustainable fashion industry.

Hindbag's Opinion on Greenwashing

We strongly condemn greenwashing and strive to be as transparent as possible to provide evidence for our statements. For us, our values ​​and commitments are not just decorations to beautify our image in the fashion industry. Our partnership with the NGO SSMI is at the very heart of the Hindbag brand. We are happy and proud to offer you 100% ethical products !

April 25, 2024